A lot is going on with recent world events, particularly hitting home in San Francisco. I never speak politics and consider myself a very moderate/conservative person when it comes to financial issues. But social issues, I consider myself liberal. I do believe that everyone rich or poor, immigrant or citizen has every opportunity to succeed. As long as you work for it and take the appropriate measures to do it legally. I don’t want this blog to be about recent events and to inundate you with so much stress that’s happening in the world. Rather, a place where you will find hope for the future and a place to find peace.

birds fly

Here are my 45th reasons why I surf.

  1. Therapy – Being in the water has given me so much space, time and sounds to be able to collect my thoughts. There is no better way to escape and disconnect.
  2. Peace – Listen to the waves crash and your mind will be free of stress.
  3. Zen – If you can sense the conditions and put your mind in state of filtering the noise you can place yourself in a state of zen. Nothing feels better when you can disconnect.
  4. Stoic – Riding a wave is such an amazing feeling.
  5. Nature – Observing how the water breaks, feeling the warmth of the sun on your back and the coldness of the water you are at the mercy of nature. Respect it.
  6. Self improvement – Learning from your mistakes and not popping up quickly before the wave barrels you get drilled and placed in the washing machine. Today, you have another opportunity to catch that perfect wave.
  7. Hustle – In the line up, surfers are hungry to catch their wave and they have every right. Will you be the one to out paddle your peer? “We are all equal before a wave” – Laird Hamilton.
  8. Exercise – The world is your gym. Surfers have some pretty nice bodies.
  9. Limitations – We’re human and sometimes we don’t realize it until Mother Nature puts us back in our place. Getting drilled by a wave and having no control of where you go can remind you quickly of how human you are.
  10. Self-awareness – It’s important to be on the lookout and aware of whats happening while you’re in the water. It can be dangerous and being alert is key.
  11. Mental state – What I mean is that you have a more powerful mental state when you realized you just caught a 10′ wave. With the right mental determination and focus you can do anything.
  12. Ambition – If you want to get stoked, you have to work for it. Surfing keeps you going and you have to be pretty ambitious to surf in cold water.
  13. Freedom – This is my favorite reason why, you are free to do what you want in the water and you can feel it.
  14. Equality – Everyone in the line up is equal. The water won’t treat you any different.
  15. Strength – Paddling out requires a lot of strength and endurance. It also makes you stronger mentally if you face your fears head on.
  16. Courage – My love of surfing is stronger than my fear of sharks.
  17. Testing oneself – I love how I succeed and fail. There’s always room to grow.
  18. True nature of being human – The surf culture is awesome, because we all love to surf. Leave the drama at home. Surfers are mellow but also in your face if you’re a danger or in a dangerous situation.
  19. Simplicity – Nothing better than just thinking about surfing.
  20. Danger – It wouldn’t be sexy without it.
  21. Waves – The most beautiful part of surfing are the waves. I love how water breaks and how it moves. It’s powerful and gentle at the same time.
  22. Sounds – Listen to waves, the birds. It filters out all the noise and you can actually think or not think at all.
  23. Beach – Truly amazing to be having a Pacifico on the beach. Sunshine, good vibes, beautiful people and an awesome time.
  24. Culture – Surfers are the coolest people ever.
  25. Sunsets – Romantic.
  26. Sunrises  – There is always tomorrow. I love being in the water in the mornings because it’s a great way to start my day.
  27. Animals – I’ve surfed with sea otters, seals, dolphins and all of them just wanted to say hello. I love watching the birds fly close to the water.
  28. Water flow – Don’t fight the water, just go with the flow.
  29. Synergy of using nature – We are much more connected to nature than you think.
  30. Adventure – Surf trips are the best. Every day is different.
  31. Surf – The entire experience.
  32. Surfboards – Different surfboards provide a different experience and I love my quiver.
  33. Surfer girls – So pretty.
  34. Locals – I like going to different breaks and observing the locals. Some are tough in harsh conditions. Some are mellow. Every local break is different.
  35. Music – Bob  Marley, Ziggy Marley, Sublime, Citizen Cope, J Boog, John Mayer, Honoka & Azitza, Dirty Heads and many more. Put on some jams and let it go!
  36. Travel – Surfers go to some pretty awesome places.
  37. Quiver – I’ve got 4 surfboards and I cherish them.
  38. Memories – Friends, surf and good times. I live for this.
  39. Friends – Making friends in the line up and at the beach. What a great way to meet people.
  40. Experiences – The entire experience of surfing. This is the list.
  41. Sand  – Take your shoes off and put your feet in the sand. So good.
  42. Swimming – The best exercise that works your entire body.
  43. Accomplishment – Getting stoked feels great.
  44. Romance – I fall in love every day.
  45. Happiness – Your being.

The most beautiful Sunsets

I hope this blog helped. Have faith. See you in the line up!

Friends in the line up
Friends in the line up

The sun will rise tomorrow.  – Barack Obama

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