What you do…First Winter Swell

About this video

Music by James Gillespie, What you do

As winter approaches in the Bay Area, the swell and wave heights get bigger. This was the first sign of winter swell and I’ve been training all year around to catch bigger waves. I’ve transitioned to a shorter board from my 6’6″ Lost Lazy to my 6’2″ Hypto Krypto to my 5’9″ Tomo Vanguard 2. My duck dives have extremely improved and I have been consistently surfing Ocean Beach. My endurance has also elevated with much stronger paddling power and technique to cause least water resistance. I can handle on average 2-3 hours of surfing per session (sometimes 4) an increase of 1.5 hours since last year. But I have seen most improvement reading the wave conditions and where to position myself for maximum ride value.

When you’re new to the sport the most difficult aspect of surfing is learning to read the wave conditions. You can have all the Surfline reports available, but analyzing a forecast report is much different than reading it in the water.

In this video, you will see me surfing wave conditions from 8-10′ from the average 3-5′. You can also see, I am much more flexible and agile due to surfing’s conditioning.

Until next time…

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