A lot has happened in the last 2 months since coming back from Bali. I’ve moved to Los Angeles to live out a dream! I guess you can say, I’m livin’ the dream. I think the older you get, the more initiative you have to do what you’ve always wanted to do before it’s too late and life passes you by. Why did I move to Los Angeles? I think I’ll save that story for another blog.
I’ve created some new videos of my experience in Bali and I have to say, Bali is magical!
Here are some past photos I’ve been posting on Instagram. My bad I haven’t been blogging! But I will pick it back up within the next couple of weeks. Be sure to subscribe and follow me on Instagram for the latest.
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My first set I caught at the legendary Uluwatu reef break. It’s a strong current, difficult break and it was on a smaller day. After adjusting and getting acclimated for about an hour I finally rode one down. Surfing is a personal exp. and test of mind, body and will. Stoked that all that conditioning in San Francisco paid off. Surfing Ocean Beach, Linda Mar, the Bay Area in general on a daily, esp. on those bigger days and gnarly closeouts paid off. Video blog coming soon. #mysurfblog #sf #uluwatu