Evolution of a Surfer

I’ve been surfing for close to 2 years now. Yes, yes, you’re probably shocked. Whenever I tell people the duration of my surf life, people look surprised and then begin to tell me they are shocked like I lost all credibility of who I am.


It’s not about how long you’ve been surfing, it’s about how often you surf. Someone that surfs 3-5 times per week vs 1-2 times per week will obviously progress a lot faster. I get about 12 hours per week, that’s about an hour per day, before sunrise and sometimes after I get off work. Not only, I surf with friends, guys that have been surfing for more than 10+ years. Thank you for the feedback and help guys!  I consider myself an intermediate surfer and I have a long way to go to get to where  I want to be. However, I am excited to see what I become.

Can you believe it’s been less than 2 years?  (1 year and 8 months to be exact)

This my experience progressively riding shorter boards from the time I started until today. This is my journey discovering the type of surfer I will become.

First Surfboard: The Mini Mal

Specifications

Style: Surftech Wood Grain Mini Malibu

Length: 8’1″

Width: 22″

Thickness: 2.9″

Volume: 63.4

Style: Thruster

Material: Epoxy

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Yes, yes, you’re probably shocked.

The Mal was a difficult surfboard to learn on. But it gave me a lot of volume to paddle past the white water and into the lineup. This surfboard gave me a great foundation to build upon the basics. After learning on The Mal for 6 months, I transitioned immediately to a shorter board.

One piece of advice, once you learn the basics listen to what your body is telling you. Only you know what you’re comfortable with, but always start off with a longboard and transition from there.

The Mal was too long for me and I didn’t like all the weight it carried with it. I knew immediately my personal style was speed and maneuverability.

Second Surfboard: The Fish

Specifications

Style: Kane Garden Classic Twinzer Fish 

Length: 6’6″

Width: 21.25″

Thickness: 2.7″

Volume: 63.4

Style: Quad

Material: Epoxy

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This is my favorite surfboard and the most valued in my quiver. This baby goes. I immediately knew that a shortboard was going to be my style. Every set that came in, I caught and in some instances while surfing at my local break, longboarders would give me shit because I would out paddle them and catch their wave. If other surfers are “hating” I guess you’re doing something right. But that was when I didn’t know surf etiquette. I wish someone told me the rules. If you’re starting out make sure you read my blog, The Untold Rules of Surfing.

I love how The Fish does well in all types of conditions. It’s a solid board.

Third Surfboard: The Lazy Toy

Specifications

Style: LOST Mahem Lazy Toy

Length: 6’3″

Width: 22.5″

Thickness: 2.75″

Volume: 43.10

Style: Thruster

Material: Polystyrene Foam

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This is definitely a reliable surfboard in all types of conditions. This is a really fun surfboard where you can really excel with your pop-up and paddling. I love this surfboard and it’s taken care of me for the past year.

Only you know what you’re comfortable with, but always start off with a longboard and transition from there.

Fourth Surfboard: Tomo Vanguard

Specifications

Style: FireWire Tomo Vanguard

Length: 5’9″

Width: 19.25″

Thickness: 2.68″

Volume: 35.6″

Style: Quad

Material: Polystyrene Foam

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This is a serious board with lots of speed. This surfboard does well medium sized wave heights where I can maneuver quickly. I am beginning to focus on my turning where in the next 3 months you will see me cut in and out of waves. This is the type of surfboard I’ve been working hard to ride.

Here are a couple clips of my transition from The Lazy Toy to Tomo Vanguard. Can you believe it’s been less than 2 years (1 year and 8 months to be exact)?

Taylor Made California Pintail

Last month I had the chance to interview legendary surfer and shaper, Pat Taylor (click here to see the interview). While interviewing Pat last month, he had a special personal project, The Black Pin-Tail.

After 4 weeks, Pat was able to complete it. Flawless. Bad ass. Just a few words to describe it.

It’s a special notch, like pulling out a number 4 wood for hitting a long haul.

Specifications

Style: Classic/Modern California Pintail

Size: 7’4″

Width: 21.5″

Thickness: 3″

Material: Polyurethane

Setup: Thruster

Pat’s Black Pintail is great for high quality ground swell waves in Northern California. It will do well surfing at least overhead waves (5ft) and isn’t as “gunny” (see Surf Science definition of Big Gun Surfboard here). It has strong paddle power and allows surfers to ride head on into swell.

How would you describe this surfboard in one sentence?

It’s a special notch, like pulling out a number 4 wood for hitting a long haul.

“It’s a special surfboard. When the day comes and you get to use it, you get a real great feeling and an awesome looking board.”

This custom board reminds me of the “Dark Side”. I could totally see Darth Vader ripping some quality waves with this bad boy. If you’re interested in getting a custom made surfboard from Pat Taylor feel free to reach out.

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Taylor Made Surfboards

Pat Taylor

Phone: (831) 462-6191

www.taylorsurfboards.com

Taylor Made Surfboards Instagram

www.freelinesurf.com