Uluwatu is no joke.

Ok. So it’s been pretty busy to say the least. I have been meaning to get to blogging surfing Uluwatu since I got back from Bali this past summer. I even created a video about it.

Bali is a magical place where everyone is an artist. Experiencing Bali definitely put life in perspective. One of the major lessons I learned while visiting Bali, is to relax and be yourself. The locals are really friendly, humble and understanding. I love Bali!

Uluwatu was at the top of the list of places to surf. This break is no joke! It’s fast, it’s scary and it’s beautiful at the same time. When I first arrived in Bali, I surfed Kuta and Seminyak at Double Six Beach. After 3 nights, I was not as prepared as I wanted to be. But traveling for only 2 weeks, I had to seize the opportunity.

When we first arrived at Uluwatu, it was high tide and very much alive. You will see in the 60 sec video below.

At first glance, I was a bit nervous. All of my friend left me to explore a smaller, less intimidating break. However, I was determined to make my dream of surfing Uluwatu come true.

I paced for about 15-20 minutes examining the entry point through the cave. I also wanted to explore another entry point, but only to learn that there’s only one way in and one way out, through the cave. At this point, I had to muster enough courage to attempt the entry. I studied the surfers that were in the tunnel attempting to exit. I studied the proximity of the walls, the rocks, the waves and timing of each swell.

Once I was brave enough to enter, I took my time and paced my breathing. I knew that the biggest challenge was to remain calm especially with the adrenaline and excitement running through my body.  I was 100% alert for any surprises.

Once I got past the tunnel, the swells came in fast. I lost my shirt about 20 minutes in. Once I got to the line up, there were about 15-20 guys out (this was about 12:20-1:00PM) and I knew it was going to be difficult competing for  waves. I just needed one ride.

It took me 2 hours to figure out one of the breaks towards the right. I was not able to catch any of the waves with such a large crowd. I got anxious after observing and patiently waiting until I noticed another break in the middle of Uluwatu. There were only a handful of guys out there, and there was surely a reason. The waves came in much larger, faster and more powerful (this was on a small day 5-8′). After observing from the far side I took my chances and positioned myself towards the outside. At this point, I was not afraid, nor nervous. I wanted to catch a wave so bad nothing else mattered.

I caught my first in the video above and realized I had came and did was I was set out to do. Three seconds of bliss. I felt good. I felt exhausted. I felt accomplished. I felt lucky. I was grateful.

Thanks for following and hanging in there even though its been awhile since I blogged. Today is my 3 year anniversay on WordPress! So I guess I’m stuck to continuing another year. Until next time! See you in the line up!

Also, if you like my blog I am very active on Instagram. Check out and follow to see what I’ve been up to! Another big trip starts tomorrow!

https://www.instagram.com/mysurfblog/

It’s been awhile…

Hey guys,

A lot has happened in the last 2 months since coming back from Bali. I’ve moved to Los Angeles to live out a dream! I guess you can say, I’m livin’ the dream. I think the older you get, the more initiative you have to do what you’ve always wanted to do before it’s too late and life passes you by. Why did I move to Los Angeles? I think I’ll save that story for another blog.

I’ve created some new videos of my experience in Bali and I have to say, Bali is magical!

Here are some past photos I’ve been posting on Instagram. My bad I haven’t been blogging! But I will pick it back up within the next couple of weeks. Be sure to subscribe and follow me on Instagram for the latest.

Venice Beach, Los Angeles

The last surf break on my trip was a place I was warned not to go by numerous people. I’m happy I’m the type to hold no judgement until I experience it firsthand. Venice Beach was amazing.

No wetsuit.

Some of my best surfing happened at Venice Beach Pier. I was surprised at how strong the waves broke. I was expecting a very mellow break, but I had scouted Venice Beach Pier the day before and noticed there was a consistent 3-4 foot break right underneath the pier. I was even more surprised there were beginners there.

After surfing throughout Souther California, my confidence was up.

I wasn’t sure why a few of my good friends had warned me. Maybe they had bad experiences with the wrong crowd. But I was out surfing most of the guys there. I was in the zone.

I’m happy I’m the type to hold no judgement until I experience it firsthand. Venice Beach was amazing.

If you’re ever in Los Angeles, you should most certainly stop by Venice Beach. There’s so much to do. There’s definitely some riff raff, but it comes with the territory. As long as you’re not disrespecting anyone or being a total douche, you should be fine.


At Venice Beach Pier in the summer, you do not need a wetsuit. Underneath the pier there are two specific breaks. On the right of the pier, there’s a good consistent left, and on the other side there’s a good right. You can surf both of them, but just remember, this is a high tourist, high traffic area. Be mindful of etiquette. Know the rules and let others have the right of way, even if you’re a better surfer. Let others catch waves and respect the right of way.

In Los Angeles everyone’s a star. – Denzel Washington

Surfing a Venice Beach was so much fun. The sun was out. A ton of people were out. The waves broke consistently and had some power and the people were friendly. I love Los Angeles.

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My cutbacks and consistency was above average, even with my hat. I wasn’t afraid.

If you want to grab a beer and watch the sunset, check out the Irwin Hotel. This was where I hung out until the end of my trip. Great way to end an amazing Southern California surf experience.

I surfed and caught the sunset. A great way to end my trip.

Recommendations

  • Go early and find parking on the street. This can save you $20.
  • If you do not have a surfboard, you can rent one.
  • No need for a wetsuit in the summer.
  • Position close to the pier.
  • Be mindful that this is a high tourist location and a lot more people in the water.
  • Have fun and bring sun block.
  • Avoid Santa Monica, way too touristy.

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