Uluwatu is no joke.

Ok. So it’s been pretty busy to say the least. I have been meaning to get to blogging surfing Uluwatu since I got back from Bali this past summer. I even created a video about it.

Bali is a magical place where everyone is an artist. Experiencing Bali definitely put life in perspective. One of the major lessons I learned while visiting Bali, is to relax and be yourself. The locals are really friendly, humble and understanding. I love Bali!

Uluwatu was at the top of the list of places to surf. This break is no joke! It’s fast, it’s scary and it’s beautiful at the same time. When I first arrived in Bali, I surfed Kuta and Seminyak at Double Six Beach. After 3 nights, I was not as prepared as I wanted to be. But traveling for only 2 weeks, I had to seize the opportunity.

When we first arrived at Uluwatu, it was high tide and very much alive. You will see in the 60 sec video below.

At first glance, I was a bit nervous. All of my friend left me to explore a smaller, less intimidating break. However, I was determined to make my dream of surfing Uluwatu come true.

I paced for about 15-20 minutes examining the entry point through the cave. I also wanted to explore another entry point, but only to learn that there’s only one way in and one way out, through the cave. At this point, I had to muster enough courage to attempt the entry. I studied the surfers that were in the tunnel attempting to exit. I studied the proximity of the walls, the rocks, the waves and timing of each swell.

Once I was brave enough to enter, I took my time and paced my breathing. I knew that the biggest challenge was to remain calm especially with the adrenaline and excitement running through my body.  I was 100% alert for any surprises.

Once I got past the tunnel, the swells came in fast. I lost my shirt about 20 minutes in. Once I got to the line up, there were about 15-20 guys out (this was about 12:20-1:00PM) and I knew it was going to be difficult competing for  waves. I just needed one ride.

It took me 2 hours to figure out one of the breaks towards the right. I was not able to catch any of the waves with such a large crowd. I got anxious after observing and patiently waiting until I noticed another break in the middle of Uluwatu. There were only a handful of guys out there, and there was surely a reason. The waves came in much larger, faster and more powerful (this was on a small day 5-8′). After observing from the far side I took my chances and positioned myself towards the outside. At this point, I was not afraid, nor nervous. I wanted to catch a wave so bad nothing else mattered.

I caught my first in the video above and realized I had came and did was I was set out to do. Three seconds of bliss. I felt good. I felt exhausted. I felt accomplished. I felt lucky. I was grateful.

Thanks for following and hanging in there even though its been awhile since I blogged. Today is my 3 year anniversay on WordPress! So I guess I’m stuck to continuing another year. Until next time! See you in the line up!

Also, if you like my blog I am very active on Instagram. Check out and follow to see what I’ve been up to! Another big trip starts tomorrow!

https://www.instagram.com/mysurfblog/

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Bali – where I left my heart.

I am not going to deny it. I fell in love in Bali. I fell in love with Bali. I love Bali. Back in Los Angeles I continue to think about her. I guess that’s when you know you’re in love. I’ve tried to shake it off. I’ve tried to explain it to myself that LA is my true love. But so is Bali…

I guess being in love isn’t a bad thing. Better to love than not to love at all.

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Here are some pictures to help me explain why Bali is my love…and why I think about her daily.

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That one time I bought a girls shirt and looked super gay. I crack myself up.

I hope to see you soon. See ya in the line up!

Destination Indo: Getting Barreled in Bali (My Indo Surf List)

After two years of aspirations and surfing domestically, it’s time to travel into international waters, Indonesia. Dreams of Indo are being realized and I have one goal in mind, surf. After working my ass off for the last 4 years and training at my local break almost every day, my mind, body and mental state are ready to take on world class waves.

I am certain my surfing will be in tip top shape after surfing heavy close outs almost every day at Ocean Beach. Bali’s waves are longer, consistent and dreamy. I can already see myself shredding in and out of the curl and pulling back to get barreled.

I will be spending over a week in Indo and I plan to hit up most of the South West of the island. My first stop is to check in our villa and head out. I will be bringing my 5’9″ Tomo Firewire Vanguard 2. This baby will do nicely.

My Indo Surf List

  1. Canggu
  2. Kuta
  3. Padang Padang
  4. Uluwatu
  5. Bingin
  6. Balagan
  7. Impossibles
  8. Dreamland
  9. Suluban
  10. Keramas

Stay tuned for some insane shots. And don’t worry, I will be bringing you along, just be sure to follow on Instagram for up to date video clips of my trip. Watch me live out a dream. Barreled in Bali.

Here are some nice lists of Bali’s surf spots.

Top 10 Surf Spots from Bali Magazine

Bali Surf Camp

Bali Surf Advisor

Surfing soothes me, it’s always been a kind of Zen experience for me. The ocean is so magnificent, peaceful, and awesome. The rest of the world disappears for me when I’m on a wave. – Paul Walker

TD

Pipe Dreams 

It’s been awhile, and I’ve been constantly busy. This blog is essentially turning into a journal. There’s no other way to put it. Dreams take time. Something that you want badly won’t come over night. It takes patience, a lot of work and plain luck. I have pipe dreams of surfing through a barrel in Bali. One day it will come…until then, I have to keep working…see ya soon.

Make sure you follow on Instagram for my daily post.