Follow Your Stoke

People often ask me when they see my Instagram if I am a professional surfer. They then ask me how I have time to surf while working full time. After that, they ask, how do I have so much energy to commit to a career and a passion. It’s simple, I love it. But in the end, it boils down to motivation and drive to do more.

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I love PCH and California’s coastline. It gives me so much peace and it’s quite the playground.

There’s nothing wrong with committing yourself to work or family. But in order to have a happy and equally balanced life, you have to make time for yourself. People work most productively when they’re happy. There is no better combination to productivity than doing work that makes you happy. Even with juggling a career, professionals need time escape to prevent from being overworked.

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Coastal life

That’s plenty of time to commit to side project, hobby, family or loved one. I pretty much commit to reading, writing, surfing and photography.

If you really want to do something, you can. Make time for it.

Here’s a music video I created dedicated to what drives me, My Nirvana. Let’s see if you can find out what I like. Comment, like, share, follow.

#quoteoftheday #mysurfblog

A post shared by Toan (@mysurfblog) on

Mind Over Matter: My Favorite Quotes from Surfers

surfer mavericks

Why do we love sports so much? Why are we so fascinated about athletics and watching athletes push themselves to their limit? Why are we intrigued with seeing records being broken?

One word, Inspiration.
We aspire to be more. People that give us hope inspire us to accomplish the impossible. Whatever your personal goals or struggles, there is always hope, you just have to believe.

Some of my favorite quotes,

  1. Kelly Slater“The joy of surfing is so many things combined, from the physical exertion of it, to the challenge of it, to the mental side of the sport.”
  2. Jack O’Neill “I’m just a surfer who wanted to build something that would allow me to surf longer.”
  3. Mick Fanning “Sometimes things just happen. Sometimes surfing this bank from Snapper to Kirra, sometimes you don’t even think what you’re doing, but you do it anyway … You get to the end of a wave and go, what did I do? Sometimes you go into a totally different state of mind. “
  4. Bethany Hamilton – “Courage doesn’t mean you don’t get afraid. Courage means you don’t let fear stop you.”
  5. Larid Hamilton “We’re all equal before a wave.”
  6. Lane Beachley – “If you are doing what you love then you’re doing what is right. Desire and passion resonate with your body, mind and soul. When you’re passionate you don’t question, judge, criticize, second-guess, or doubt. It’s that passion that will fuel the fire to overcome challenges.”
  7. Gerry Lopez – “It’s a cakewalk when you know how.”
  8. Phil Edwards – “The best surfer is the one having the most fun.”
  9. Buzzy Trent – “Waves are not measured in feet or inches, they are measured in increments of fear.”
  10. Bethany Hamilton – “Life is a lot like surfing… When you get caught in the impact zone, you’ve got to just get back up. Because you never know what may be over the next wave.”

All of these surfers became important figures because they instilled a strong belief of doing the impossible. But most importantly, they believed in themselves and did what they knew was right.

Surfing isn’t about being the best or winning trophies. Like all challenges in life, surfing is about improving as a person and proving the impossible to yourself.

No one is a better surfer than you are. A lot of beginners are worried about looking like a “kook” when they are just starting out. But I respect those that are trying to learn and doing everything they can to become better. Whether you’re trying to advance your career, lose weight, save enough to buy a house, get married, whatever your goals are you have to believe in yourself and let the fear of failure go…

“Defeat is not the worst of failures. Not to have tried is the true failure.” George Edward Woodberry (not a surfer, but a poet)

Recently, I went head on with a ~8-10′ wave and never hesitated. This was the result. I was stoked!


What are some of your favorite quotes? Feel free to comment and share how you’re able to accomplish your goals.

 

The Untold Rules of Surfing

When the waves break here don’t be there, or you gonna get drilled – Turtle to Rick, North Shore

Do you remember the cult movie, North Shore? Well, surfing in real life is kind of similar, but there’s no one there watching you. Surfing can be a dangerous sport if you don’t know what you’re doing. When I started out, no one told me how to act or what to look out for. So I definitely want you to be mindful before you go out.

As surfing becomes more and more popular all across the world, there’s going to be more people. And more people means more accidents. Don’t get caught in a dangerous situation and definitely do not hurt yourself or others around you.

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I remember a few instances where surfers would call me out. Looking back, I totally appreciate and respect what they were telling me. I don’t know what I was thinking being out in the water with 4 months in and trying to surf 5-7′ waves. I could’ve injured myself or others around me. I barely knew how to catch a wave and for sure, definitely didn’t know the rules. If a surfer calls you out, there’s a reason for it. Respect the locals and respect yourself. Take every sign and indication for what its worth because someone’s looking out for you. Definitely, do not take it personal and just brush it off. Unless, you know how to surf and there’s localism about. We will talk about that in another post.

Surf Etiquette at The Hook

  1. First surfer up closest to the curl, has right of way.
  2. Paddle around the break to get out.
  3. Hang on to your board and look out for others.
  4. Help other surfers in trouble.
  5. Respect the beach and ocean.

What does this mean?

  1. First surfer up closest to the curl, has right of way.
    • When you’re in the line up, there’s going to be people in front of you and people behind you. The person closest to where the wave curls or “breaks” has the ownership of that wave. If you see this, scale back and let that person go.
  2. Paddle around the break to get out.
    • I remember paddling out and I wasn’t aware that I was in the middle of line up and the break. Do not put yourself in this position because you will get hurt or hurt someone else. I injured my knee for a few months and a longboard went hit me head on. Ouch! One mistake I will not forget. Go around and try to paddle back where the rip current is, where the wave dies out.
  3. Hang on to your board and look out for others.
    • Last weekend some douche bag was paddling for the same wave I was on and he missed it. He then proceeded to let go of his surfboard and it came right for me while I was popping up. DO NOT LOSE YOUR SURFBOARD. I was a bit upset because he wasn’t mindful of others around him. Always know where your surfboard is and never lose it.
  4. Help other surfers in trouble.
    • Surfer’s are athletic and we love the water. If we see anyone in distress you better believe we’ll help.
  5. Respect the beach and ocean.
    • There’s nothing more beautiful than nature and surfing wouldn’t be as beautiful without it. Please do not liter and please respect mother nature. I would also add, respect the locals. They know how the waves break and conditions best. Be mindful of what they say if it helps.

If you can follow these rules and be mindful of your skill level, equipment and respect others, you should be good. Remember, we all make mistakes and it’s okay to make them as long as we learn. But always be respectful and apologize if you “dropped in” on someone or cut them off. Surfers are some of the coolest people out there, have fun and don’t bring any drama to the beach.