Destination Indo: Getting Barreled in Bali (My Indo Surf List)

After two years of aspirations and surfing domestically, it’s time to travel into international waters, Indonesia. Dreams of Indo are being realized and I have one goal in mind, surf. After working my ass off for the last 4 years and training at my local break almost every day, my mind, body and mental state are ready to take on world class waves.

I am certain my surfing will be in tip top shape after surfing heavy close outs almost every day at Ocean Beach. Bali’s waves are longer, consistent and dreamy. I can already see myself shredding in and out of the curl and pulling back to get barreled.

I will be spending over a week in Indo and I plan to hit up most of the South West of the island. My first stop is to check in our villa and head out. I will be bringing my 5’9″ Tomo Firewire Vanguard 2. This baby will do nicely.

My Indo Surf List

  1. Canggu
  2. Kuta
  3. Padang Padang
  4. Uluwatu
  5. Bingin
  6. Balagan
  7. Impossibles
  8. Dreamland
  9. Suluban
  10. Keramas

Stay tuned for some insane shots. And don’t worry, I will be bringing you along, just be sure to follow on Instagram for up to date video clips of my trip. Watch me live out a dream. Barreled in Bali.

Here are some nice lists of Bali’s surf spots.

Top 10 Surf Spots from Bali Magazine

Bali Surf Camp

Bali Surf Advisor

Surfing soothes me, it’s always been a kind of Zen experience for me. The ocean is so magnificent, peaceful, and awesome. The rest of the world disappears for me when I’m on a wave. – Paul Walker

TD

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Mount Shasta, California

Oregon’s terrain along the coastline is similar to California with arches along the beaches, animals such as seals, sea lions and sharks found in the Bay Area. However, it’s a lot colder with temperatures reaching 27-33 degrees Fahrenheit and snow in central Oregon and some along the coastal cities.

I plan my route to go through central Oregon to tour some of the epic trails along Mt. Hood and the Columbia River Gorge. I made it a point to view some of the famous waterfalls Oregon is known for such as Romona Falls and Multnomah Falls.

Before I enter Oregon, I drive through Interstate 5 and stop in Northern California with conditions similar to Oregon giving indications to what to expect entering Oregon.

I make it the following day after a tour of Mount Shasta, California to see the snow, mountain top and the active volcano.

Mount Shasta

Mount Shasta was gorgeous and this was the first time seeing snow this season. The weather in the Bay Area is around 52-57 degrees which doesn’t provide conditions cold enough to snow (which is a good thing). This was also, Daisy’s (my 2 year old English bulldog pictured below) first time experiencing the white fluffy stuff.

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Here’s a view of Shasta and Cascades from my drone’s camera. I had to stop and film on our way up. Hope you enjoy.

One thought, be sure to subscribe either to my blog, Instagram, Facebook page or my new Youtube channel if you enjoy the content. Feel free to provide any feedback on how I can make your viewing experience better or leave a comment. I plan to travel to exotic surf destinations and appreciate how I can make your viewing experience enjoyable. Thanks for viewing! Next stop, Oregon.

Marin County an Adventurer’s Paradise

Going back to my hometown with a different perspective. It’s quite refreshing to come back to California’s forestry after a few days in different environments outside of the Bay Area. While returning to Marin County, I surf with an old friend at Bolinas beach break, explore the wonders of Point Reyes National Park (PaloMarin Beach) and visit Point Reyes Station.

There’s plenty to do whether you’re hiking, camping or passing through on a road trip. You can find it all.

Just across the Golden Gate Bridge, Marin County spans from Sausalito to Novato and includes some of the best views of redwoods at Muir Woods. Highly recommend if you’re visiting the Bay Area.

California was the last frontier for European exploration. If you visit the coastline you will see the influence European adventures had on modern day. For example, many of California’s state parks or monuments are named after European conquistadors such as Sir Francis Drake, Drake’s Bay in Marin County. To learn more about California Central coast, visit my blog on Big Sur, Big Surf Part 1.

California was built upon the sea and the coastline, and it’s the most important resource to the state. The surf here can be dangerous, challenging or mellow depending on your skill level. You can surf Cronkite if you’re advanced or chill out at Bolinas. Just remember, whiteys are around.

 

 

Surfing Wine Country

Living in a major metropolitan area as crowded as San Francisco, you’ll find that some people will become easily agitated. Think about traffic if you have a long commute to and from work. You’re not entirely in the best mood if someone is in your way. Imagine if you were in the water trying to surf? There’s a reason why surfers are so much in tune with nature. We avoid the crowds and we grimace when we see groups of non-locals and beginner surfers taking over our beaches. The only way to cure this, find unexplored beach breaks.

My adventure up north was quite the experience. Most people wouldn’t think about surfing in San Francisco and wouldn’t bother to think that you could surf in Sonoma County, Wine Country. Here it is on a map below.

Sonoma County has an old town feel with lots of farm land and diverse geography spanning from the coast to wine country. My adventure starts on the Russian River hanging with good friends on a nice sunny Saturday.

The Russian River was settled by the Russian American Company by Ivan Aleksandrovich Kuskov in 1817 and provided fresh fish such as sturgeon and salmon as long as 5′ – Wikipedia

The 1800s are long gone and after more 200 years, the river is still abundant, salmon, seals are still part of the ecosystem and so are the “real locals”,  Great White Sharks. Many surfers have warned me not to surf Sonoma County. However, I wanderlust to find the perfect wave. Onward! (Sonoma County surfer bitten by shark)

Russian Rivermouth

I make my way towards the coast and reach the river mouth. I heard this is called the “McDonald’s drive thru for Whiteys”. I assess and find no swell.

Driving along I notice a surf shop,  Kool City Surf Shop. Steve was awesome and told me he was originally from San Francisco. He gave me the drop on where I should go, Salmon Creek Beach. Nervously, thinking about the fresh salmon and feeding grounds for Whitey, I said farewell.

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The first surf shop I see in miles means I am getting close

Goat Rock Beach

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Fog, coastline and arches
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A sandy beach leads into a cove with rocky crags

Flat at Goat Rock Beach at 10:15am nothing exciting, but still nice. I head south as Steve instructed down Highway 1 for another 20 minutes.

 

Driving on Highway 1, the first sign of swell is when I see another surfer on a cliff checking out the break. I feel a rush of excitement as I look to the horizon.

Finally, I’ve arrived.


It’s 12:10pm,  the last time I checked it was between 82-84 degrees with the sun in full force. Quite the day to go surfing, San Francisco weather is around 65 degrees on average. This is Glorious. Studying the waves and timing the sets, I was surprised by what I see. Consistent sets with small barrels coming in, a line up and families enjoying the beach. Pretty Groovy. I knew this was going to be epic! 

Paddling out, the water felt like it was 56-59 degrees, pretty cold as in all surf spots in NorCal. I suggest wearing at least a 4/3mm, I felt fine.

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The first thing I noticed in the line up were the animals. Instead of the usual seagulls at my local break there were these Brown Pelicans flying in groups that came very close to the water, sometimes 3-4″ away trying to catch their next meal. It was breathtaking. Another moment, I had dolphins right beside me as I was in awe. I fumbled my camera and wished I was fast enough to capture them on film, but they quickly submerged underwater.

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The locals surfers were experienced and there were only a handful of them. Everyone seemed to be in the zone and happy to be out.


It took me about 20 minutes and a few wipeouts to get a grasp on timing and the angles of the break. The waves had a lot more force when they came in, not like Santa Cruz where the waves are longer and don’t barrel as quickly. I was able to find my rhythm and ride a few sets all the way in.

Overall, Sonoma County has solid surf. If you’re interested in exploring, here is a list of all the beaches in Sonoma County State Park. Definitely a great place to spend the weekend with a variety of activities and sites to see. If you’re interested in learning more click here. I will definitely be coming back.

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The drive home provided plenty to reflect upon. One thing is true, I was a bit skeptical and afraid of the shark stories I heard. It was an amazing trip and I’m stoked that I went. Don’t let anything discourage you, go see it for yourself. 

Thanks for reading and I hope you enjoyed the post. Let me know if you have tips, suggestions, feedback or questions. If you enjoyed this blog posts sign up and receive updates on my next adventure.

In my next post, we’re going back to the basics. See you in the line up!

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Surf Trips in Northern California

What type of person are you? Are you someone that likes to go against the grain? Or maybe someone that likes to stay in the middle of the pack? There are really two types of people in my opinion. Someone that likes to test the waters to see what happens even when there is a lot of uncertainty. And then, there is someone that is risk averse and likes to take the safe play. Whatever person you are, there’s lots to explore. If you’re starting to venture out into unknown breaks, this might help prepare you for what to expect.

I’ve been living in Northern California for pretty much my entire life. Northern California is expansive and diverse in its geography. The entire state can be quite expansive with 840 miles of coastline, the 3rd longest in the nation behind Florida (1,350 miles) and Alaska (6,640 miles). But one thing is true, the Beach Boys and the phrase “California Dreaming” explains why California tops the list for its beaches and surf lifestyle. If you’re wondering where to go next, California has a lot of surf hot spots, you just have to find them. Take a look at this list from RentApplication.com that lists the top 30 surf spots in the nation (close to half of them are in California). BTW, I will be visiting most if not all of them, so stay tuned! (There are some missing hot spots on the list, but I’ll keep my mouth shut for next time.) To begin your surf adventure here are some dangers to think about.

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Top 10 dangers surfing in Northern California,

  1. Sharks
  2. Rip currents
  3. Big waves
  4. Drowning
  5. Unknown terrain such as rocks
  6. Localism
  7. Crowds
  8. Fog
  9. Water temperatures
  10. Bottom out

In order to prepare for your trip, you will have to measure your skill level and be honest with yourself. Do not attempt to surf breaks that are for more advanced and experienced surfers. If you surf a 2′-3′ wave typically, stay within your range. If you want to surf more difficult breaks, train yourself and build up your endurance by mastering your current surfboard and local break.

Here’s a critical piece of advice, study unfamiliar breaks by watching the waves and attempt understand how it breaks, locate the rip current and be aware of your surroundings such as rocks or where other surfers position themselves. Talk to the locals and be respectful.

If it looks too big or out of your comfort zone, chances are, it probably is. In my next blog post, I finally venture out and experience one of the best surf breaks on the Top 30’s list infamous for Great Whites. Here’s a preview. Until next time!