Uluwatu is no joke.

Ok. So it’s been pretty busy to say the least. I have been meaning to get to blogging surfing Uluwatu since I got back from Bali this past summer. I even created a video about it.

Bali is a magical place where everyone is an artist. Experiencing Bali definitely put life in perspective. One of the major lessons I learned while visiting Bali, is to relax and be yourself. The locals are really friendly, humble and understanding. I love Bali!

Uluwatu was at the top of the list of places to surf. This break is no joke! It’s fast, it’s scary and it’s beautiful at the same time. When I first arrived in Bali, I surfed Kuta and Seminyak at Double Six Beach. After 3 nights, I was not as prepared as I wanted to be. But traveling for only 2 weeks, I had to seize the opportunity.

When we first arrived at Uluwatu, it was high tide and very much alive. You will see in the 60 sec video below.

At first glance, I was a bit nervous. All of my friend left me to explore a smaller, less intimidating break. However, I was determined to make my dream of surfing Uluwatu come true.

I paced for about 15-20 minutes examining the entry point through the cave. I also wanted to explore another entry point, but only to learn that there’s only one way in and one way out, through the cave. At this point, I had to muster enough courage to attempt the entry. I studied the surfers that were in the tunnel attempting to exit. I studied the proximity of the walls, the rocks, the waves and timing of each swell.

Once I was brave enough to enter, I took my time and paced my breathing. I knew that the biggest challenge was to remain calm especially with the adrenaline and excitement running through my body.  I was 100% alert for any surprises.

Once I got past the tunnel, the swells came in fast. I lost my shirt about 20 minutes in. Once I got to the line up, there were about 15-20 guys out (this was about 12:20-1:00PM) and I knew it was going to be difficult competing for  waves. I just needed one ride.

It took me 2 hours to figure out one of the breaks towards the right. I was not able to catch any of the waves with such a large crowd. I got anxious after observing and patiently waiting until I noticed another break in the middle of Uluwatu. There were only a handful of guys out there, and there was surely a reason. The waves came in much larger, faster and more powerful (this was on a small day 5-8′). After observing from the far side I took my chances and positioned myself towards the outside. At this point, I was not afraid, nor nervous. I wanted to catch a wave so bad nothing else mattered.

I caught my first in the video above and realized I had came and did was I was set out to do. Three seconds of bliss. I felt good. I felt exhausted. I felt accomplished. I felt lucky. I was grateful.

Thanks for following and hanging in there even though its been awhile since I blogged. Today is my 3 year anniversay on WordPress! So I guess I’m stuck to continuing another year. Until next time! See you in the line up!

Also, if you like my blog I am very active on Instagram. Check out and follow to see what I’ve been up to! Another big trip starts tomorrow!

https://www.instagram.com/mysurfblog/

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Can’t Live Without You

What drives us do what we do? 

Why do people have  a certain lifestyle?

Why are some hobbies more popular than others? 

What makes us who we are?

Why do people spend time and money on their interests?

Passion.

Here’s a quick 3 minute clip I threw together in 5 minutes. Hopefully, the lyrics are clear.

 

 

The Surf in Newport South Jetty

I had caught the sunrise at Yaquina Point Lighthouse and then drove 5 minutes towards Newport South Jetty. Newport South Jetty is south of South Beach, Oregon and is a popular local surf spot. It’s protected by the jetty so you get more consistent waves when wind is a factor. There are hosted surf competitions here and the waves can be pretty big from 8-12′. As I arrived, the parking lot was empty and a few local surfers prepping for the morning session. They were pretty surprised to see me and probably were wondering where I was from. It was all chill vibes.

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I have this wetsuit and it’s a great one for all year around cold water surfing Super Freak 5/3mm, click on it for more information.
The two local surfers headed in as I was undressing and waxing my board. During my prep (15 minutes) I observed 4-5 cars pull up and park. The driver would get out and feel the wind chill and jump right back in, then exit the parking lot. I saw this for 15 minutes. I didn’t blame them, it was a cold blistering 33 degrees Fahrenheit 0 degrees Celsius. While scoping out the surf, I never saw sand so white. It was frozen, but the surf looked amazing. Scroll all the way down to see it for yourself. One note, my GoPro stopped recording when I almost got barreled. I know. It was awesome!

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For more information on Newport click here.

Here is a list of all known surf locations in Central Oregon, click here.

Evolution of a Surfer

I’ve been surfing for close to 2 years now. Yes, yes, you’re probably shocked. Whenever I tell people the duration of my surf life, people look surprised and then begin to tell me they are shocked like I lost all credibility of who I am.


It’s not about how long you’ve been surfing, it’s about how often you surf. Someone that surfs 3-5 times per week vs 1-2 times per week will obviously progress a lot faster. I get about 12 hours per week, that’s about an hour per day, before sunrise and sometimes after I get off work. Not only, I surf with friends, guys that have been surfing for more than 10+ years. Thank you for the feedback and help guys!  I consider myself an intermediate surfer and I have a long way to go to get to where  I want to be. However, I am excited to see what I become.

Can you believe it’s been less than 2 years?  (1 year and 8 months to be exact)

This my experience progressively riding shorter boards from the time I started until today. This is my journey discovering the type of surfer I will become.

First Surfboard: The Mini Mal

Specifications

Style: Surftech Wood Grain Mini Malibu

Length: 8’1″

Width: 22″

Thickness: 2.9″

Volume: 63.4

Style: Thruster

Material: Epoxy

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Yes, yes, you’re probably shocked.

The Mal was a difficult surfboard to learn on. But it gave me a lot of volume to paddle past the white water and into the lineup. This surfboard gave me a great foundation to build upon the basics. After learning on The Mal for 6 months, I transitioned immediately to a shorter board.

One piece of advice, once you learn the basics listen to what your body is telling you. Only you know what you’re comfortable with, but always start off with a longboard and transition from there.

The Mal was too long for me and I didn’t like all the weight it carried with it. I knew immediately my personal style was speed and maneuverability.

Second Surfboard: The Fish

Specifications

Style: Kane Garden Classic Twinzer Fish 

Length: 6’6″

Width: 21.25″

Thickness: 2.7″

Volume: 63.4

Style: Quad

Material: Epoxy

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This is my favorite surfboard and the most valued in my quiver. This baby goes. I immediately knew that a shortboard was going to be my style. Every set that came in, I caught and in some instances while surfing at my local break, longboarders would give me shit because I would out paddle them and catch their wave. If other surfers are “hating” I guess you’re doing something right. But that was when I didn’t know surf etiquette. I wish someone told me the rules. If you’re starting out make sure you read my blog, The Untold Rules of Surfing.

I love how The Fish does well in all types of conditions. It’s a solid board.

Third Surfboard: The Lazy Toy

Specifications

Style: LOST Mahem Lazy Toy

Length: 6’3″

Width: 22.5″

Thickness: 2.75″

Volume: 43.10

Style: Thruster

Material: Polystyrene Foam

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This is definitely a reliable surfboard in all types of conditions. This is a really fun surfboard where you can really excel with your pop-up and paddling. I love this surfboard and it’s taken care of me for the past year.

Only you know what you’re comfortable with, but always start off with a longboard and transition from there.

Fourth Surfboard: Tomo Vanguard

Specifications

Style: FireWire Tomo Vanguard

Length: 5’9″

Width: 19.25″

Thickness: 2.68″

Volume: 35.6″

Style: Quad

Material: Polystyrene Foam

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This is a serious board with lots of speed. This surfboard does well medium sized wave heights where I can maneuver quickly. I am beginning to focus on my turning where in the next 3 months you will see me cut in and out of waves. This is the type of surfboard I’ve been working hard to ride.

Here are a couple clips of my transition from The Lazy Toy to Tomo Vanguard. Can you believe it’s been less than 2 years (1 year and 8 months to be exact)?

Surfing South Beach, Oregon

On the last leg of my road trip down Oregon’s coast I had the opportunity to explore and discover some epic surf in Oregon. I never thought Oregon had such glassy breaks, but boy! I was in for a treat.

After surfing Westhaven State Park, Washington I drive another 4 hours down the coast and discover South Beach.


It was 7:00am with strong offshore winds, a great sign. The weather was cold approximately 30 degrees Fahrenheit. Daisy was very cautious about approaching the water. Getting wet was the last thing she wanted.


Scoping out the break, I was very surprised to see such clean breaks about 4-5ft with 2 occ. overhead. I was excited to discover such a beautiful beach with awesome surf.


Once I was in the water, the paddle out was easy. The water felt good and it was consistent. The current was pulling me south and I had to consistently paddle north. The swell was consistent and I almost got barreled. One surprising experience that’s becoming normal, a seal came up and popped out close to my surfboard’s nose, it smiled, said hello and disappeared. After being distracted, I caught a nice wave and rode it all the way in.


After my session, I realized Oregon is a perfect place for an adventurer like me. Epic surf, hikes and snowboarding. I will surely be back in the summer.

Here’s a video of my experience. However, my GoPro didn’t catch any of my epic rides. At the end of the clip you see me paddling hard for a wave and then it cuts off. I know! But it’s a great clip if you want to see what I’ve described of the beach, water and waves.

The Surf at Westhaven State Park, Washington

Surfing in Washington was one of the best experiences I’ve had throughout my surf career. Something about the beach brings a calm and fresh feeling. I drove over 1,000 miles from San Francisco to Washington and I didn’t know what to expect but intel from blogs and surf reports. Reading weather forecasts and surf reports online doesn’t give you a clear picture and it’s hard to understand the tide or conditions without visuals.

I always tend to check in and talk to the locals at the surf shop. They can give you critical information on where the best locations are at a particular time. The Surf Shop in Westport was equipped with gear to allow any surfer to enjoy cold water surfing at local breaks and provide forecasts on the best times to suit up.

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After entering the surf shop I was greeted by a nice and pleasant attendant. She was pretty happy to see me and curious to learn where I was from. I guess signs of non-locals is a good thing for any surf shop. But she gave me some tips about what to expect, where to go and when to go. After leaving the shop, I was excited and nervous at the same time. I had to explore the beach to uncover the safest and best break for low Tide strong north offshore winds.

This is what I uncovered.

The Cove

The Jetty

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After making an assessment and exploring the park, I decided to try out the Jetty. There was a strong offshore wind allowing for waves to break cleanly. It was low tide, strong off shore winds and waves reaching 3-5 feet occ. 2ft overhead. I had a blast surfing Westport, Washington and will surely be back.


To see a complete breakdown of the location and best conditions to surf at these specific locations check out this article here.

Equipment

  1. Isurus Elite 434
  2. O’Neill Men’s Thermo-X 
  3. O’Neill Wetsuits Men’s 5 mm Heat Round Toe Boots, Size 9, Black
  4. O’Neill Technobutter Gloves
  5. LOST Mayhem 6’3″ Lazytoy

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You can also view my entire unedited experience below.